Stories from the trail

Every chapter has a story behind it.

Short, first-person pieces set in the places our books walk through. Each takes a few minutes to read. Then follow it into its book.

28 stories · 3 books

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From Parvati Valley, Beyond Kasol

Beyond the Cafe Strip

A clearly fictionalized reflection on the limits of treating Kasol as the whole of Parvati Valley.

“Kasol answered the questions I brought. The villages past it asked better ones.”

Parvati Valley2 min read

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From the book · 10 stories

Parvati Valley, Beyond Kasol

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Beyond the Cafe Strip

A clearly fictionalized reflection on the limits of treating Kasol as the whole of Parvati Valley.

Fictionalized editorial composite: no real traveller, visit, interview, character or conversation is represented.

Parvati Valley2 min read

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Kasol – Slow Saturday

A fictionalized reflection about failure and travel, not a report of real travellers or events.

Fictionalized editorial composite: the travellers, visit, local characters and conversations are invented, not reported.

Kasol2 min read

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Kheerganga – Fire and Water

I train bodies for a living and thought the climb would be easy. It was. Sitting still in the hot spring after, with my father's stents on my mind, was not.

a gym trainer from Ludhiana, 33, six weeks after his father's bypass

Parvati Valley2 min read

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The Cafe With Three Menus

I went to Tosh expecting a trek. I left thinking about a laminated menu with three cuisines on it, and what that actually says about a place.

a Yatri Reflection: an editorial composite representing a traveller's perspective, not a transcript of one verified interview

Tosh, Parvati Valley2 min read

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The Day I Stopped Checking My Phone

I came to Kalga for a weekend to escape deadlines. By the third day I had stopped counting how many messages were waiting for me, which had never happened before in my adult life.

a Yatri Reflection: an editorial composite representing an Indian traveller's perspective, not a transcript of one verified interview

Kalga, Parvati Valley2 min read

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The Langar at Manikaran

A fictionalized reflection on langar and pilgrimage at Manikaran, not a report of a real visit or interview.

Fictionalized editorial composite: the narrator, visit, pilgrim and conversations are invented, not reported.

Manikaran, Parvati Valley2 min read

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The Village That Said No

I carried a bottle of rum up to Grahan out of habit. I carried it back down unopened, and felt strange about how easy that decision turned out to be.

a Yatri Reflection: an editorial composite representing a traveller's perspective, not a transcript of one verified interview

Grahan, Parvati Valley2 min read

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The Waterfall That Does the Talking

I moved my laptop to Pulga for a month, told everyone it was for the connectivity. The waterfall outside my window did most of the actual convincing.

a Yatri Reflection: an editorial composite representing a remote worker's perspective, not a transcript of one verified interview

Pulga, Parvati Valley2 min read

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Two Weeks That Were Supposed to Be Two Days

I planned a short detour on my way through Himachal. Kalga had other plans, and I am still not entirely sure how I let it win.

a Yatri Reflection: an editorial composite representing a foreign traveller's perspective, not a transcript of one verified interview

Kalga, Parvati Valley2 min read

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What the Guide Would Not Say

Our guide told the Alexander story like scripture on the way up to Malana. On the way down, I asked him a different question, and got a much more honest answer.

a Yatri Reflection: an editorial composite representing a traveller's perspective, not a transcript of one verified interview

Malana, Parvati Valley2 min read

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From the book · 3 stories

Winter

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Mirror of Stillness

I audit accounts for a living. Then I stood at a lake that has kept perfect books for five hundred years, and I owed it one entry.

a chartered accountant from Mandi, 45, settling an old promise

Rohanda, Mandi District2 min read

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Solstice Fire

Everyone asked what I was doing with my life. I went where the nights are longest and learned to answer slowly, beside a bukhari stove.

a 23-year-old who left engineering in the third year

Above Manali2 min read

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Why Locals Avoid Manali in Peak Season

When the temperature in Delhi hits 45°C, the soul of Manali begins to suffocate under a sea of white number plates and honking horns.

Above Manali2 min read

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From the book · 2 stories

Lost Trails

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Churdhar – Bell Echo

My knee ended my marathons, and my doctor said find a slower religion. So I climbed to the shrine of Shirgul at the speed of grandmothers.

a former marathoner from Chandigarh, 41, learning to walk slowly

Sirmaur2 min read

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Small God

After my grandmother died I went looking for the kind of shrine she used to sweep. Above Sarahan, I found one that was still warm.

an architect from Delhi, 38, carrying an unfinished ritual

Kinnaur skirts2 min read

Beyond the books · 13 stories

More from the trail

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Bell and Thunder

I record sound for films. One monsoon in Seraj, a temple drum answered the thunder, and my equipment could not hold what my chest could.

a sound recordist from Mumbai, 36, one working ear that month

Seraj shrines2 min read

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Bhaba – Moon Road

Thirty-one years in uniform, and my first month as a civilian I walked from green Kinnaur into bare Spiti, to see which side of me was left.

a retired subedar from Hamirpur, 52, first month out of uniform

Kinnaur to Spiti2 min read

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Buran – First Light

I have been scared of heights since I was six. The year I turned forty I stood on top of Buran Ghati at dawn with a rope in my hand, laughing.

a bank branch manager from Solan, 40, afraid of heights since childhood

Pabbar Valley to Kinnaur2 min read

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Forest Chants

Twenty-two years of teaching, and then my voice gave out mid-sentence. In the Jibhi cloud forest I met the one classroom that never needed me to speak.

a government schoolteacher from Una, 47, on medical rest

Jibhi & Shoja cloud belt2 min read

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Jalori – Small Circle

Eight months after her knee surgery, my mother wanted one walk that fit her. The forest path to Serolsar Lake was exactly her size.

a son from Bilaspur, 39, walking at his mother's new pace

Jalori Pass2 min read

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Kinnaur: Beyond the Pass Reality

Kinnaur isn't just a district; it's a boundary between the cedar forests and the cold desert. Dealing with the landscape's raw power.

Uttarakhand to Kinnaur (Sangla)2 min read

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Meadow Reverie

My last scan came back clear in March. In April I lay down in a meadow above Manali for one whole afternoon and let the grass do the celebrating.

a school librarian from Ambala, 49, one clean scan old

Upper Beas meadows2 min read

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Parashar – Floating Island

A student asked me why the island in Parashar Lake moves, and I gave the physics answer. Then I went to check, and the lake asked me better questions.

a physics teacher from Sundernagar, 35, out-argued by a lake

Mandi, Himachal Pradesh2 min read

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Quiet Compass

My phone died forty minutes into the park, and that is when the trek actually began. A story about losing signal and finding bearings.

a product manager from Gurgaon, 34, first time past Chandigarh

Great Himalayan National Park fringes2 min read

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River Hymn

Three years of white noise machines, and then a river. A new mother borrows silence from the Tirthan and takes some home.

a new mother from Chandigarh, 31, first night away in three years

Tirthan valley2 min read

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Rupin – Waterfall Days

My sister's visa came through in April. In May we climbed the Rupin's waterfall staircase together, our last big walk on the same side of the world.

two sisters from Shimla, 26 and 30, one emigrating in June

Uttarakhand to Kinnaur (Sangla)2 min read

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Sunlit Song

Nine years photographing other people's weddings, and my first free June in a decade. I spent it above the treeline, shooting nothing, humming everything.

a wedding photographer from Palampur, 37, first empty June in nine years

Kullu & Lahul ridges2 min read

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Tirthan: The Slow Valley Reflections

In the Tirthan valley, time doesn't tick; it flows with the river. A local's view on why speed is the enemy of the mountain spirit.

Tirthan valley2 min read